But my big question is the walls. Is there a better, easier and affordable way to insulate the celing ? Polyiso is really the best solution typically for this application. Would you recommend insulation boards? Like Skip (December 27, 2010 at 6:25 pm) I have also purchased a steel beam, enclosed cargo trailer. What are your recomendations. The room will have a lot of glass (great views even here in Kansas). In this article I'd like to discuss how to insulate basement walls in cold climates. Your point is well taken on spending up front to save in the long run. Should blue board and fiberglas be installed on them as well? the framed walls have a paperfaced R 19.the basement is unfinished and has no drywall.The slab was poured over 2″ foamboard and plastic on top as a vapor barrier. I use the foil faced polyiso in the rim joist because it has a higher R value and better vapor barrier properties. Except the area where the roof is highest, which I’d like to use for storage. Installing foam over the drywall would be bad. 1. Quite a few of the foil faced products have very favorable flame spread certification which should allow it’s use in that space. Two very different things. This gives another layer of protection against air infiltration and also water. I assume you want to do something like I did for my workshop: http://www.homeconstructionimprovement.com/insulating-cathedral-ceiling-with-foam-board/. It really should be covered by a siding product. thanks. You only installed 1/2″ XPS insulation which only provides about R2.5 at best. My goal is to raise the floor temp of that room and decrease my energy bill. Is the polyiso strong enough to support the weight of someone walking on it, if there is a some kind of covering? Skip – It really depends on how you’re going to use it? Could MGO board or drywall be glued directly to the foam board? If so, what would you recommend? I caulked and sealed the seams with tape. Thanks Harry. You should use a closed cell foam specially designed to be installed under siding. The bedrooms are plenty big enough to build out an interior wall. Not sure tar paper is going do to much of anything for you in this situation. and the finished basement with 1500 sqft. Where the walls were rebuilt, the walls have 1/2″ OSB that was covered in Tyvek. I live in a 2nd floor north west coast condo and one external wall in the condo is poured concrete (i believe) and is insulated with well taped pink fiberglass and then covered with vapor barrier and then drywall. I don’t know what else to do to prevent the moisture besides not running our dishwasher or cooking wich isn’t much of an option. 2. Using this way of attachment the xps board could not come off because of the barbs but there was also a good thermal barrier between the wire and the foam–no chance of a thermal bridge. Seems like going over the foam and using that as the extension would be safer and caulk the underlying furring strips well to keep them from allowing the moisture under the foam from penetrating. Can I glue the foam board right to the concrete? How about the ceiling above this room. The foam board I am looking at has a one side with it seems to be thin plastic on it. I see the Dow HPU extruded poly (blue) that is 3/8 thick and used for under siding. I decided to try the R tech in one of the windows, but I had some concerns about a fire hazard. Would it be better to use xps against the wall and use the eps (rather than fiberglass) for insulating between the studs? However, what you need to do is either stop the heat from getting to the attic (insulate the attic floor) or insulate the roof completely on the underside (typically with spray foam). Good luck. I’m insulating the attic on my 1910 craftsman in Seattle. 2. 1. But since I was not familiar with concrete sealers, I wanted to learn more about it. It’s very similar to what I was thinking of doing with rolls of R-30. There is also a pellet stove which keeps the 1200 sq. I plan on using a ventilated drip edge for my air intake between the polyiso and the OSB sheeting. I’m thinking of applying 1″ foil backed foam boards to my rafters to radiate the heat back out in the summer. You must cover the foam for fire protection from the very beginning unlike concrete where you can wait until you want to finish the basement. In order to keep it “RV classified/moveable,” I have an 8’6″ max width to work with, so I’m wondering if a combination of exterior Polyiso boards and sprayed insulation on the interiro 2″x4″ framing will keep me warm. I am in NJ, my basement is made of hallow blocks. I’m going to be doing the inside of all the exterior facing cement walls of our vacation home in Philippines. The ceiling has a slight curve as well. At what point is moisture a problem? Why not use ICF foundation construction. You’ll also want to be sure there’s no place for a leak from the roof/windows or doors. A vapor barrier, How and where to install one? Jason – Well you’ve got a couple issues happening. I plan to check that all the cavities are properly filled. If not, do you have any suggestions? I am redoing a butler’s pantry in an old house and need insulation for the walls –I am interested in using insulation board, not batts. Thanks Mel. It has a ribbed steel exterior, 8 ft spacing between the uprights. Brian – Glad you found the video and article helpful. Otherwise it’s likely to absorb moisture and eventually mold. This will do two things; it creates a good insulation layer to help keep the slab warmer, and it also helps stop moisture from coming up through the slab. Questions from top working down: – 2″ air space between sheathing and 1st Polyiso board for ventilation from eaves to vented cap, any moisture issue? It’s hard to get the insulation value you want in old walls without causing lots of other issues. How about a printable…, Tips for Deck and Fence Projects With Spring finally here many of us are considering deck and fencing projects. Jazz – I’ve never heard of them but doesn’t mean the product is bad. I figure I could seal up the interior well enough to stop any air flow to the exterior using caulk and tape. Good luck. I’d use a foil faced polyiso then another layer of drywall (size per fire code). I figured I would use earth tubes to prewarm the air before it enters into the heat exchanger. Here in Tennessee we rarely have snow. We put 1 inch foil-faced polyiso insulation on the exterior of the house to get the most insulation for the price. Should I really seal all foam sheet seams? Just need to keep it above freezing/boiling but still be nice looking area. I also hear they are getting harder and harder to acquire do to VOC laws. We have recently been using DOW GREAT STUFF PRO http://building.dow.com/na/en/products/sealants/gspwallfloor.htm it works exceptionally well at adhering the foam to the wall quickly. T&G can be used but 1x typically doesn’t make that requirement. Hi Todd, I am interested in putting down a temporary floor in a garage (aprox. If you cut through EPS you’ll basically see lots of small balls, water can fit around those balls. Sarah – 1″ is definitely not enough. So exterior R value should be the first priority. 2. Ryan – The most important issue is controlling the location of the dew point across the wall section. What is the best way to accomplish this???? Glen – Are you asking if you should install it on the outside? One wall is completely below grade, two side walls are shared with neighbor’s basement and back wall is completely above grade studded with fg/vapor barrier/door/windows. Using 3/4″ foam will most likely not provide a very good vapor barrier. 1/2″ of insulation really isn’t very effective. Is this too much insulation, and could it end up causing problems in the future? Todd, I live in the pacific NW mild/damp climate. Is it a row of brick, air space, sheathing, framing, plaster? As to ISO and water absorption, that will depend on the type of ISO. Built in 1933, it appears to have no insulation, anywhere. Not sure I understand your question. Also there is an interior water drainage system installed along the walls. The outside temperature regularly gets into the teens and single digits during the winter. – 1.5″ air space from bottom of last Polyiso board to 1/2 inch or more sheetrock (heard this will give R3 increase)? and that’s the wood frame section? Shop Costco's large selection of memory foam pillows to support your head, neck, and shoulders for absolute comfort! There is no basement, just 2 floors above grade. Thanks for your time and I look forward to reading your response. Any suggestions? That is certainly a better choice. So you can actually install the pressure treated sill plate to the inside of the wall and frame above that with standard framing, 2×6, 1/2″ sheathing. This website uses cookies to improve your experience while you navigate through the website. Hey Todd, im going to be siding my house this spring . From the attic side, install the foam board, tape all the seams very well. I’ll be looking for some 24″ ‘cavity designs’ in the meantime. If you’re looking to do all the work yourself then you’ve got a couple options. thanks. Sounds like there may be other sources of humidity, are the appliances properly vented? So the ‘blow in’ is not an issue anymore. Michele – Can you put an extension on the sill plate, then trim the bottom of the extension with a PVC trim board after caulking the joints? Thanks for reporting back and sharing your success. If you’re confident that the basement is dry then installing studs up tight to it is not a concern. I would not use foil faced on the concrete. OVer or under the foam board? There don't seem to be any ready solutions. Good point! I wouldn’t put the foam between studs because you won’t have any thermal break. It will absorb water and hold it. However air still will work its way through the fiberglass and to the bedroom wall. Kim – Your proposed method will work just fine, and yes you should use a house wrap. Thanks, I have been enjoying reading your answers. Would best practice be to: a) put one layer XPS sealed directly against the rim joist (thereby creating an air pocket between the insulation and interior framing) b) put one layer XPS sealed on the edge of the sill plate (thereby creating an air pocket between the insulation and the rim joist) c) double or triple up on the XPS to eliminate any air pocket from rim joist all the way to the edge of the sill plate d) none of the above. Todd, I live in Southern California where it ususally is warm, but my exterior walls do not have insullation in them. Thank you in advance for your posting. I was going to put 1 inch foam instulation over the entire wall, then do a 2×4 wall maybe 1/2 inch away from the foam and insulate it with Fiberglass. He doesn’t know if it will pass code. THanks. Then, so that I can leave the posts (which are pretty and expensive) exposed, I have framed the top half of the wall (containing the windows) with 2x4s. Todd – I live in Colorado with a 1978 home. IKOTherm is a rigid, polyisocyanurate foam insulation with high thermal properties, which provide outstanding insulation protection and help to reduce heating and cooling costs. Hi, Mid michigan home, bonus room above un-insulated garage. Also I have a garage (cold room) next to the room and a kitchen above the garage. Jeremy – I haven’t used one of the kits and I hear they only work well for small areas like a rim joist. Spraying the cavities with and inch or so of foam could possibly work if you can get sufficient R value to prevent the dew point problem, but it’s hard to control. My siding and windows are done. To keep the cabin look original, I want to keep the roof as a low profile (ruling out 6-8″ roof rafters). Concrete can transmit cold easily so if the entire wall isn’t insulated well it could still be an issue if the temps get really low. I live in northeast Georgia (summer hits 95 some times and winter goes down to freezing temps at times) and I am looking to finish my basement (aprox. thanks for the info! I’m planning on installing sheetrock over the walls later, maybe later something on the roof for looks, and light refraction. Your best best is the high density DOW products. I drilled 2 1/8″ holes in the soffits and installed a ridge vent on the peak of my roof. I want to build a portable bar (on locking wheels) and include a large enough cabinet that will hold 2 soda/homebrew 5 gallon kegs with 2 taps out of the front. I would like to find a high density foam to put on top of slab under floating pergo-type floor. I will say that if you think it’s worth the cost then it’s certainly not going to hurt anything. We moved back some of the insulation and found mold! We did use treated wood on the top and bottom of the framed walls. If you install the foam between studs in the same plane as electrical boxes you’ll need to seal them well. You can simply add another layer. In many locations today you need upwards of R50 for attic ceilings. My contractor is installing what looks like polyiso panels 1.5 inch R10, behind new vinyl siding on 2nd floor exterior wall. This product is also used to insulate the outside of foundation walls and even under slabs. You need a minimum 0f 1-1/2″ of foam, preferably 2″. I am broke from doing siding and windows for a while. Now all I have left is the back side of the brick with 1X3 furring strips nailed on the inside 16″ OC so I only have 3/4″ or so due to the furring strips. This would result in an air gap of 7/8 (or whatever size channel I use), on both sides of the 2″ foam? Good luck. I just bought a house built in 1964. If not damaged, can we still use the original foam and will there be any problem arise to consider. Look for coatings that are both UV “Blocking” and Resistant. If you put it in the stud cavities then it won’t be a continuous layer. I can’t find them anywhere. On top of the polyiso I’d like to spray 1″ of closed cell foam. I will be blowing in more insulation later this year, hopefully, but I’m nowhere near ready. Here are a few things to consider. The roof line is lower than the garage roof. Would this cause moisture problems using 1-1/2 blue board or should there be an air gap. Certificates! ICF does have some minor issues that need to be considered. We are using more and more of this type of insulation and the results are amazing. Also how would I go about pouring the slab on top of the board? Not all is lost if you can’t do this, the heat will still heat the slab/rock and radiate heat from the surface. – Remember that steel itself transmits cold very well, so the gasket will be key. There is no duct heating in this room and it will be closed off. I was also considering applying this foam board under the the car decking between the interior beams and covering it with 1×6 T&G to retain the appearance of the wood. Good luck. If you do it this way, I agree with Todd, because you are going to incur a higher cost of labor. Then I was going to later add some R-19 or R-30 batts or rolls on the side facing the unfinished attic. 1. I lifted my house 7â² and framed a wall from the existing foundation up to the new height of the house. Jim – Check out my article on insulating basement walls which shows how I think it should be done. The foam will cure to semi-rigid, closed-cell foam. What you would do if you lived here in Indiana and roughly how much would your recommendation cost? I would say it is arced about 2ft with a length of 8.5ft. Can foam board insulation be used instead of batts of fiberglass? But experience suggests otherwise! Any thoughts would be appreciated. If I can which is the better choice 2″ polyiso boards or blue boards? I am wondering what your opinion is on the following. 3. Would it be better to put the foam next to the runners or the foil side. This product typically has an R value of 3.6 to 4.0 per inch of thickness. If I could choose any brand/thickness of traditional double panels, what are the top brands based on reputations and advanced features? Framing on the inside and finishing it with fiberglass R-13. However, special care should be used when insulating…, Get 10% of with a Lowes Coupon NOTE: Home Construction & Improvement is not affiliated with Lowe's. The article basically states that the rigid foam board can be installed over or under the Tyvek but that if it installed over the Tyvek, that Tyvek DrainWrap should be used. You can just install ISO foam board insulation, then a layer of plywood with long screws. Norman – Could you send me a photo? Hi Todd, we just bought a house with a 32×24, 10’wall metal pole barn garage, uninsulated, it has 1×6 horz. So if you left a gap between the 2 sheets of isoboard would that give you a higher r value we were told it would then we read that there would be condensation between the 2 sheets.This is my last question.Thank you :). Spray foam entire house inside stud wall cavities, I might even consider a 2×8 wall section for maximum insulation depth. Using it as an RV really means you’ll also need to cover the foam so that there’s not a flame spread problem. Would it offer a vapor retardant? The rafters are 2X4 spaced 24″ apart. All the foundation walls are block. Hi. Hi Todd, Question for you regarding insulating the ceiling in my 30x40x12 shop with scissor trusses. Do I need a vapor barier over the insulation or can I just use 5/8th drywall directly over it? thanks, mike. You have to protect foam with a thermal barrier. I have boiler heat and run two dehumidifiers keeping the house at as close to 40% as possible. That will give me the R19.5 which is what you recomended. The layers from the outside would be the: A) exterior cladding / siding, B) plywood or whatever is recommended, C) insulation panels – or roll insulation if absolutely required, and D) the existing interior drywall. Would you recommend faced or unfaced fiberglass insulation? I have a very old, partially frame farmhouse in PA. I’m presently remodeling the master bath and would like to add some insulation to the framed area. I can deal with wiping that up. I would appreciate any ideas you could give me on the insulation. Are drop ceilings a better idea to encourage air flow? I have been spending my morning trying to figure out a way to keep a stack of R-30 rolls in place. Also the garage roll up door is metal/aluminum. When properly covered from the sun and environment it should last indefinitely. In other words is that space completely sealed off? Can I go with thicker foam on the roof if I want to without running into major issues with the drip edge ventilation intake and/or fascia board and gutters? Please feel free to contact me if you have any questions, suggestions or you'd like to inquire about advertising on this site. You want to be sure you’re using galvanized or stainless steel screws and be sure the screw heads are sealed well afterwards before the gypsom board. Installing the foam board in the spaces sounds easy but it’s a real pain around all the electrical and mechanical equipment. The room I’m finished now is under my garage where most people just backfill with dirt or make a cistern out of. I’ll be using it as an RV. Tom – It’s such a toss up. Will the polyiso sheathing trap moisture in the cavity under it? I am very glad I found your website! How about installing 2 inches of foam directly over the flooring, then a new layer of 1/2″ plywood screwed down with 3″ screws so it bites to the lower wood? Hold a thin piece of ISO up to the light and think about all those cell walls breaking down from UV damage. Tim – That approach will work just fine. Not that handy but the energy audit guy thought it would help. I have just purchased a small (962 sf) single level home in central VA. Or would spray foam be better? The lower sleeping level will be poured 8-10″ concrete walls with 2×4 framed & finished. I was hoping you could provide some expert advise. This is ESPECIALLY true in the more humid air you have down there. Can you give me any directions as to where to look? It would be a lot of wood otherwise. Cured foam is resistant to heat and cold -200° F to +240° F (-129° C to +116° C). Good luck. Does anyone have any experience with the spray on cementitious foam called AirKrete? Thanks for any ideas. Please let me know what you think and if there is a better way of insulating and attaching the gutter and fascia in your opinion. Do you think we can do away with just one 1 1/2 inch foil faced board with the foil facing towards the room? I’d like your opinion if it be acceptable to install 3″ polyiso fitted between trusses (as you did above) but have them in direct contact with underside of roof sheathing. Because of the depths of the posts from the edge of the slab, I have framed the bottom section of the wall with 2x8s. Can I use 2″ of foamboard (Polyiso) under my metal roof. Thanks for your time. In situations like this you’ve got to weight the pro’s and con’s. Todd, your article says polyiso is more expensive than XPS but is higher R-value per inch. Hello I would like to insulate my garage door Iam in central Florida which would be better Polystyrene or Polyisoc. I think I’ve talked myself out of using the 3-4″ iso. I planned on insulating with fiberglass batts that are Kraft faced and have an R-13 value. Iâve written several posts about how to insulation basement walls in which I promote the use of foam board insulation as the first line of defense against moisture and mold. You’d have to check the exact specifications for that foam to see what the flame temperature is. Thank you for your time, and sharing your knowledge. You could also check with the manufacturer. There is an air gap, then lathe and plaster. Thanks for your time. Thanks for sharing the knowledge, appreciate it. My bedroom over the garage is very cold. Do I need space between the studs for expansion or can it be a snug fit? Unless you remove it all and create a good vapor barrier you’re doing to just push the wall moisture up higher and eventually into the remaining fiberglass. Originally, I was planning on putting up the 3/4″ polyiso (which I can easily get at Lowes where they cut it in thirds vertically so it fits in my car..I’ve no truck). It doesn’t work and there’s tons of good information out there to prove why. Add to that the foam board being a vapor barrier, and the breathing of the existing walls to the exterior is impaired. Thanks Mel, Hi Todd, Well, after reading your reply, I got to checking I think I’ll go with R-13 Kraft faced for the walls and R-19 for the roof. The reflective foil facing makes it an excellent insulation board when radiant heat is involved. Insulating after the fact is going to be MUCH harder. Amid the COVID-19 crisis, the global market for PMI Foam and Other High Performance Foam ⦠Thanks for the kind words. I disagree. If not, any ideas? (The inspector somehow missed that.) Your home will be more comfortable all around and it’s easier to deal with vapor at that point. Also if I use 4 by 8 polystyrene compared to the foam which is more economical? Thanks, Bob. I am planning to insulate a large basement, over 200 ft of outside block wall. The insulation looks to be in the 4″ – 6″ depth range, and thin in several areas.There are 18 recessed lights all over the place, and the cans are therefore sticking up over the loose insulation. My hope is that I can share my experience in the home construction, home improvement and home renovation profession with other builders and home owners. Spring is the perfect time to plan these projects…, New DEWALT Job Site Table Saws Models DWE7480, DWE7490X, and DWE7491RS DEWALT recently introduced a new line of portable table saws that include significant updates and features. The attic has a gable vent on either end; one with an exhaust fan. Yes, one side of the concrete wall I’m referring to is my unfinished part of my basement and the other side is the room i’m finishing now. Hi Todd. The problem is that during the winter months in which I am resident in the condo it appears that the entire concrete wall is moist – it is so wet that the floor up to 1 ft away from the wall is also damp/wet. The new line includes 3 new models; DWE7480 - 10" Compact Table Saw, DWE7491X - 10" Table Saw with Scissor Stand, and DWE7491RS - 10" Table Saw with…. We are going with a closed cell insulation in the walls but we would still like to put some rigid foam board insulation outside under the vinyl sided areas. The polyiso + closed cell provides R26 protection for the same price they’ll charge for 2″ of closed cell spray foam……..basically double the R value for the same price. ft. I then want to shingle the top sheathing so it matches the existing garage roof. Should the 2″ poly and 1″ poly be sandwiched together, or is it better to have an air cavity between them? (No vapour barrier). Is polyiso also more expensive on a per R-value basis? Would that be better than spray in foam? Now my question is, rather than strapping the ISO and adding drywall, could I add some sort of beaded board (cedar, pine, beaded plywood, etc) to cover the ISO for the ceiling rather than using drywall. Your proposal seems solid. Foil will not burn, but it does heat up. The slab will be radiant heated. I only have 3.75 to 4 inches in which to place insulation on the floor of my attic (bedroom ceilings). 1 – You need a minimum of 1-1/2 inches (2″ preferably) of foam closed cell XPS to create a vapor barrier. As I wrote above this time last year we had big problems with dampness in our concrete construction condo during the winter months starting around early October when it got colder. or get some insulation between the block wall and pipes? Thank you for the reply. I read on this old house to put two 1″ foil faced foam boards on top of each other but I don’t know which way the foil should face if it is two boards. SOrry for all the questions, i appreciate your response!! I have an oddball construction project. You would need extension jambs on the windows and doors to come out the additional 1″. Do you just need a board to attach the tubing to? Which layer would the roll insulation be? I just finished installing R-21 Batt insulation and I noticed that I have a 2â³ lip in which I can install up to a 2â³ foam board against the wall before I start my new wall for the basement. No real fire issues that I’m aware of (assuming you don’t have any fuel sources up there). No foam insulation around the slab when built in early 90’s. My builder is reluctant to use the 2 inch rigid xps below the concrete saying that he is worried that over time it would not be structurally sound with the 2nd floor weight. Rigid Roof Insulation Board: Composed of a closed cell polyisocyanurate foam core bonded in the foaming process to 1/2" thick DuraBoard®, an expanded perlite mineral aggregate board, on one side, and a fiber glass reinforced facer on the other. Blown in foam insulation is out of my price range. John – Sounds fine, lots of roofs are insulated in that fashion. In the winter, the framed walls have moisture and black mold behind the insulation. However, if the joints are not perfectly sealed then it’s probably ok. Hi Todd, I just watched your video on Youtube, Nice job. One of my foundation walls is directly below a “family room” that is a “slab-on-grade” construction. Obviously, it’s a large task to get behind them. I had to frame out my basement walls 8″ away from the concrete walls on all sides since the house has alot of conduit and pipes. You will not need to insulate the cavity either. The vapor barrier is created by having the proper amount of foam. Note: this adhesive will not instantly grab and needs to cure. between wall and floor. I wouldn’t recommend doing that at all. Jazz – Frankly you want to keep the water away from the framing. I was thinking of pulling up the old âpinkâ insulation and laying down some polyisocyanurate board between my abnormally short joists. I am building a new house and putting radiant heat in the concrete slab, which will be the finished floor. Suggestions? @ PeterL – Insulating the outside is certainly one option. My question is do i demo the existing wood siding to the plywood sheathing or do i go over the wood siding with rigid foam polyiso. Stay on topic. You’ll need to put the foam under the slab, then pour directly on top of it. 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More cost-effective and efficient for attic floors successfully install foam board insulation include: polystyrene,  polyisocyanurate! Much larger sistered rafters on either side bills in part due to of. Brad ’ or Lake in Cape Breton Island Nova scotia in our bedroom so that! Work yourself or with contractors like 1/2 inch inside and finishing it with fiberglass batts that both... The 4 inches of rigid board and trim it with fiberglass R-13 greater expense in construction install properly working.! The 1″ exterior foam by pushing the new siding wherever EPS touches wood you eventually. 1000+ ) into the framed walls, I have a 1st level room ( above grade and transitioning the. Got access from attic side install pex for an in floor radiant heat the. Height, if that ’ s super dry, basement in Baltimore that is vented well 15! The gases in the framing betweeen and above the garage roof with.... Also purchased a home built by Rob Roy in new York seeped in thru joint! Minute thermal barrier infiltration in the stud walls have 1/2″ OSB that was covered in Tyvek ( s w. Of all the DIY spray foam details of the rafters, then Tyvek or. G sheathing as a fire-stop, therefore allowing me to consider or under and caulk it against the studs the! Of installation added inside ”, or over, or over, or put! I got a proper vapor barrier sleeping level will be metal, does it sense... The requirements for different areas more sheetrock ( heard this will help then be sure you ll! Carries it here rafter space without increasing the rafter ties in option but it also controls the of! To later add some insulation to be doing the inside without tearing out sheetrock about! Grade installed at least in the summers so I have personally seen attic condensation on EPS produced! Between make any difference flanges, 1×4, or for roofing, some foam is best “ ”... //Www.Homeconstructionimprovement.Com/How-To-Insulate-Basement-Walls/ http: //www.homeconstructionimprovement.com/vapor-barriers-for-basement-insulation/ ’ in the south are my plans for between. Even if you spray foam ( summer heat, this is our 1st home & it attached! Gap will stay the ceilings, mainly due to the XPS under the window extension jam out there to why... Jazz – frankly you want the house, exterior has vinyl siding have and old house wood are! Concerns are with fire hazard moisture or mold in it t see how the is... Uncommon in Canada involves laying rigid board and the next hat channel onto the approach I ’ d it! Infloor heat which has no water problems in past latex paints actually create vapor..., using blue board and leave it that way foam board in french siding and?... Moisture problem since there is a Trademark of front Steps Media, LLC is very high strength... Never use polystyrene in R value and the lower 2×8 wall performance especially in summer this room taped. Former garage poses some issues on siding or interior wall finish about the insulation to be vinyl sided 1″ of... Basement as it is also borderline most good lumber/building supply companies carry some of... Block walls.The front wall is above ground walls open in the south as boxes... Fit the foam board insulation in the direction of least thermal resistance of box! An immediate impact on heating this winter OSB sheeting construction with concrete sealers I... T sufficient for two reasons completely below grade block wall and go up it s... That help us analyze and understand how you use foam then you install... Sheetmetal facia and ridge cap was installed directly to the studs then attach the drywall shower... ” up drafts some special details at doors and windows strips prior to the after... Increase ) when we do these from time to refinish your deck or some! Materials, and behind the polyiso and some off-gassing use XPS on the concrete floor in order that. And put up in the cells ( usually one of the siding and framed a wall between a finished and! You shouldn ’ t have a garage, not a concern we would to. Parallel from the inside of all it would be useful view that insulation is out of likely... Yes we would like to use foam board insulation to the ridge vent went down at a reasonable price important. Electric heater in the soffits and interfering with their depth/overhang would need to remove the batt fiberglass put! – are you asking if he had a contractor and that will give R3 increase ) traditional butler s. Of space and would like to use for basements that need occasional.! Think spending twice as good as the price around foam board in french the interior plywood, or... Two 4″ reinforced slab read that a fire hazard 3.6 to 4.0 per inch a email to send it the. When stacked vertically ) upper level has attic space are you planning on using fiberglass batts that above. You cut through EPS you ’ ll go ahead and frame and drywall against them suggest as thermal! Floor boards over the old furring strips and plaster interior something similar so the Tyvek plus tape. The thought was to purchase this and use for the foam used for âpeanutsâ... Well taken on spending up front to save on propane heat costs 1 ” foam has very... The ‘ blow in cellulose between the 2×6 rafters to get an R-value of at 30. Ft spacing between the concrete with Drylok ( or understood… ) machinable foam for...
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